High Waves Put the Caribbean On Alert Again and Accelerate Beach Erosion

The warning is issued due to the effects of cold front 13 this week and the current one.

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Experts from the University of Costa Rica (UCR) and the National University (UNA) issued a warning about the high waves that will be generated by cold front #14, which will affect the country from Friday, February 6, to Sunday, February 8.

The experts warn that one of the main risks associated with this phenomenon is erosion on the country’s beaches, especially those located on the Caribbean coast.

The recent cold snap 13 has already affected the country and left visible signs on the Costa Rican Caribbean coast, such as accelerated erosion, sand loss, and high waves that lasted for several consecutive days. Now, experts say that this scenario could repeat itself.

“These waves arrive in a context of climate change and, consequently, rising sea levels. This allows the waves to ride on a higher water level, reach higher areas of the coast, and cause greater damage,” explained Gustavo Barrantes, president of the Latin American Coastal Erosion Network and researcher at the UNA’s Environmental Geomorphology Program.

According to experts, the cold front intensifies the trade winds over the mountain passes of the Guanacaste mountain range, with gusts that could reach up to 50 mph.

These conditions will cause high waves, posing a risk to both tourists and navigation, especially for small and medium-sized vessels.

Accelerates erosion

Cold front 13, which affected the region from the weekend until the middle of last week (before the current one), has already left clear evidence of erosion in the Costa Rican Caribbean as a result of the waves generated by this phenomenon, which remained active for several days.

Similarly, the current cold surge also threatens to significantly remove sand from several beaches, directly affecting infrastructure near the sea.

While it is normal for beaches to lose and regain sand as part of their natural dynamics, erosion occurs when rising sea levels or ocean currents remove sand disproportionately.

“Severe waves cause the sand to retreat almost immediately, and then a recovery process begins, but when you return to the beach, you see that it is no longer in the same position as before,” explained Barrantes.

According to the UNA press release, these types of extreme wave events can cause permanent changes to the coastline. An example of this occurred in 2020, when, according to Barrantes, you can already see how the beaches have recovered, but they have changed location.

Barrantes warned that climate change increases these risks due to multiple factors, including sea level rise, which, combined with erosion, accelerates beach loss and reduces its extent.

“The danger is that, with climate change, waves capable of removing sediment from the system, which we call the sedimentary cell, will occur. When that material is transported to a place from which it can no longer return, sand is permanently lost and beaches become shorter and much more vulnerable,” said the researcher.

The expert also stressed that it is not recommended to resort to improvised solutions such as dikes, walls, or breakwaters to protect the coast, as these types of interventions are often counterproductive: they alter the natural shape of the beach, accelerate erosion in neighboring areas, and can end up covering it with rocks.

 

Caribbean and North Pacific under adverse conditions

On the other hand, this weekend, average wave heights between 2.1 and 3.1 meters are expected in the Caribbean Sea, with peaks that could reach up to 4.2 meters, conditions that increase the risk of rip currents, especially in the Southern Caribbean, where the probability will be very high.

Meanwhile, in the North Pacific, cold currents and strong winds will generate choppy seas and high waves with average heights between 1.8 and 3.6 meters. The UCR statement indicates that this area of concern extends from the Cruz region to Punta Guiones and out to the open sea.

Starting on Sunday, February 8, models indicate that the swell will begin to gradually decrease, returning during the week to conditions more typical of the season, with heights close to 1.0 and 1.5 meters.

Call for caution

Authorities and specialists are calling for extreme safety measures to be taken, both for those engaging in recreational activities at sea and for navigation. The conditions associated with this cold snap pose a significant risk to navigation, especially for small and medium-sized vessels.

In addition, swimmers are reminded to be aware of rip currents, avoid entering the sea in adverse conditions, and consider other risks present in coastal areas.

Finally, it is important to follow official forecasts and information issued by the competent authorities, as conditions may vary as atmospheric systems evolve.

Behold Retreats
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